Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Notebook




Restaurant Sushi Ran


Kinki, oboro konbu

Megikari, kinomi

           Toro, yuzu kosher



Katsugodai

Kohada


    Chef Mitsunori Kasukabe, one of the best



Miyazaki beef

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

La Canebière, Marseille France





Kisu konbujime by moi


Composition

Kisu
vinegar
salt
shaved bonito flakes
konbu

Maquereau by David Toutain


Composition

Mackerel
Lemon
Verbena leaves
Rosemary flowers


Composition

Tomato
Berce herb
Berce liquid
Mackerel jus
Chive



Composition


zuke mackeral
smoked eggplant
bitter prune compote
mackerel jus
wasabi
marjolaine

Restaurant Mirazur












Night view

Server
Chef Mauro Colagreco and David Toutain

Piglet

Garden squashs in its own juice
Apples

Menton, France September 2, 2009

David and I arrive at Mirazur kitchen to "work" for a "day." The cooks report to the kitchen 8 am sharp in the morning and stay for two services. A whole piglet is being broken down by a petite Japanese commis...crack the front leg came right off. An intern mop a wet spot by the stairs. Tomatoes are being slowly cooked in it's own juice. Sous chef check over menu. There's no joking around, only serious cooking, and what a beautiful thing to watch.

The next day we are sitting outside, sipping on champagne and enjoying the warm air. David and Chef Mauro are speaking in French...catching up on old times when they worked together at l'Arpege. Note to self, need to learn French! I knew I was in a treat for something special and hold back on the bubbles. I especially adore the perfectly, crisp brunoise green apple with mint, shallot cream, and soda of seaweed. Give me more please! Crudo shrimps scream oceanny (is that a real word...) accompany with sweet-crunchy slivers of peaches. Varieties of squash from the garden cooked to perfection with a lovely broth. The young piglet are gorgeous, glistering in its own juice, seducing me to take another bite. And then there was dessert. I couldn't resist the adorable macaroon. Everything is simple and delicious. Bravo to the chef and his staff!

Monday, December 28, 2009

Restaurante Mugaritz


The beautiful dining room

Huerte

Apple in calcium

Milk fed Veal

Fossilized salsify, wild herb and huevos de pescado

Carpaccio of watermelon

Gisantes in katsuobushi broth

Carnation petals in squid broth

Potato rocks and perfect aioli

The sign in lounging room

Errenterria, Spain May 21, 2009

After many emails back and forth (all in Spanish) I finally got the chance to stage at Mugaritz Restaurant. For those of you who don't know what stage is, it is basically a term used in the kitchen meaning to apprentice. I didn't get pay, but they were gracious enough to feed and give me a place to stay. Looking back, I couldn't believe it, somehow I am here in Spain. I work, chefs yell, (good things I didn't understand 100% Spanish), I cry, I get myself into heated arugments with my chef de partie, but I laugh and I learn to appreciate. It is the most wonderful experience; the people, the green hills, the pintxos, the beer, the culture, the respect for nature, the way of life. Mugaritz holds a special place in my heart, thank you for a delicious and most memorable time. Enjoy the pictures.